Monday 13 October 2008

PlanetWulfagar and the quest for arroz do polvo

Before heading to Portugal for a lovely long weekend (or 'babymoon', according to my brother), I found myself wondering if there were any dishes particular to Portugal. I mean, I've heard of the custard pastries in Lisbon, but main meals? Y'know, like Spain has its paella and tapas?

Fortunately I had the Top 10 Guide to the Algarve to tell me. Turns out one of the specialities of this southern coastal region is arroz do polvo -- "a regional speciality which evokes the Algarve's love affair with the sea". In other words, a bubbling stew of octopus and rice, in a garlicky tomato-y broth. And so with reading, the quest began.

And yes, in our long weekend in the eastern town of Tavira, we had sunning by the pool, wanders through a traditional market a short train ride away in Olhao, snooping round the old run down castelo (no more than walls and a garden - not exactly Edinburgh Castle, but a great view), reading, napping, and walks along the shore... but we knew the weekend woldn't be complete without that polvo!

And so on our first night, we headed to the seafront, ordered our treat at a little local spot and... were told about 10 minutes later, after munching on bread and wine, it was no go, they were all out of the popular dish. That's ok, plenty of time left. And the grilled chicken was finger lickin' good.

Friday night - take 2. A more upscale restaurant this time. And unfortunately, a little too upscale for this more peasanty fare. D'oh! (But had some yummy black pork loin... I mean, I had to eat)

Saturday, last day -- taking no chances, we opted for ordering it at lunch, at restaurant number 3, confirming it was on the menu as we entered. Or so we thought. But -- noooooo -- after placing our order we were informed that in fact the octopus wasn't fresh enough, and we wouldn't be happy. Foiled again! (Though did get to try out speciality number two, cataplana, a different sort of 'succulent seafood delight', thanks for the recommendation, Top 10)

However, as I think someone somewhere said, good things come to those who wait (and someone else said, 'an-ti-ci-pay-ay-tion'), and so we were to be rewarded in our very own last supper (of our trip at least). Back at restaurant number 1, Jaoa de Belhi... success! And definitely worth the wait.





So, great trip, great sights, and great food. And little Stashley's country count and culinary adventures continue to grow!

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

The arroz looks yummy, but WHO WAS THE CELEBRITY ENCOUNTER???!!!

PlanetW said...

you'll have to keep coming back for more...

Anonymous said...

I had a CELEBRITY ENCOUNTER this morning when I looked in the mirror. I got my own signiture.

Anonymous said...

I think you're making it up. It better be someone like the Queen, or Prince William.